24/7 Emergency Roof Repair — Same-Day Tarping & Storm Response

What counts as a roof emergency

Roof emergencies share a common feature: continued exposure to water, wind, or structural compromise that compounds damage every hour the situation remains unaddressed. Distinguishing an emergency from a non-emergency repair determines the dispatch priority and the appropriate first response.

True emergencies (24/7 immediate dispatch)

• Active water intrusion — visible dripping or running water entering interior space, regardless of weather conditions outside
• Tree or limb impact — branch through the roof creating an open hole, structural penetration of any size, deck splintering visible from inside
• Hail penetration — hailstones large enough to break shingles or punch the underlayment, typically requiring 1.5"+ stones in standard residential roofing
• Storm-stripped sections — wind events that have removed multiple courses of shingles and exposed underlayment over more than 50 square feet
• Tarp failure — a previously-installed emergency tarp has come loose, torn, or failed during a subsequent weather event
• Structural sag — visible bowing or deflection of the roof deck, typically from snow load, water-saturated sheathing, or prior framing damage

Urgent but not always emergency

• Slow ceiling drip during dry weather (interior moisture migration from a recent event — schedule next-day dispatch with interior containment)
• Visible shingle damage without active leak (may not breach the underlayment — schedule within 5-7 days)
• Single missing shingle in a non-critical location (mid-slope, no flashing exposure — schedule within 14 days)
• Skylight condensation (interior humidity, not a leak — ventilation issue, not a roofing emergency)

Our 4-stage emergency response

The emergency response sequence prioritizes damage stoppage over diagnosis. The full diagnostic process happens after the bleed is contained.

Emergency tarping — what it covers, what it costs

Emergency tarping is the most common immediate-action containment. A properly-installed tarp creates a temporary water-tight layer that holds for 30-90 days, buying time for materials to be ordered and the permanent repair to be scheduled around weather windows.

How professional tarping differs from DIY

The tarp itself is the smallest part of the work. Proper installation requires:

• Material selection. Heavy-duty 6-mil polyethylene tarp (minimum), grade-rated for weather exposure. Cheap blue-poly tarps from a hardware store fail in 3-7 days under wind load. Reinforced corner grommets are mandatory.
• Furring strip technique. The tarp is sandwiched between two 1×4 or 2×4 furring strips and screwed through the deck — never directly through the shingle face. The strip-sandwich distributes wind load across the strip rather than concentrating it at fastener holes that would tear through the tarp during the first wind event.
• Overlap on the upslope edge. The upslope edge of the tarp must extend at least 4 feet beyond the damaged area and tuck under the existing course of shingles where possible. Water shed must flow over the tarp, not under it.
• Anchor at the ridge when possible. A tarp that extends to and over the ridge has the most secure upslope anchor. A tarp that ends mid-slope requires careful sealing of the upslope edge with mastic or a secondary furring strip.
• Fastener placement. Screws (not nails) every 6 inches along furring strips. Each fastener is sealed with NP1 or polyurethane caulk to prevent water entry through the fastener hole itself.

Tarping cost factors

How long the tarp holds

A properly-installed emergency tarp holds for 30-90 days under most weather conditions. UV exposure degrades the polyethylene over 90+ days, and sustained high-wind events (75+ mph) can damage even properly-installed tarps. The tarp is not a permanent solution; the permanent repair must be scheduled inside the tarp lifespan.

Common emergency scenarios

Tree limb through the roof

Limbs penetrating the roof deck create both a structural and water entry emergency. The on-site response: cut and remove the limb (chainsaw work, often with arborist support for larger limbs), assess deck damage, install temporary deck patch (1/2" plywood screwed over the opening), install tarp covering the patched area extended at least 4 feet beyond the damage. Permanent repair includes deck section replacement, ice-and-water shield, full underlayment, and shingle replacement matching the existing roof. Total cost range: $1,800-$5,500 depending on damage area and material match.

Storm-stripped shingle section

Wind events that strip 30-100 square feet of shingles expose the underlayment, which is rated for 30-90 days of UV exposure but not for sustained wind-driven rain. On-site response: assess the exposed area, install ice-and-water shield over any damaged underlayment, tarp if rain is expected within 48 hours, schedule shingle replacement. Permanent repair cost: $700-$2,400 depending on coverage area and color match difficulty.

Hail penetration

Hailstones of 1.5"+ diameter can penetrate asphalt shingles and damage the underlayment beneath. The damage is often invisible from ground level and requires close inspection. Emergency response is appropriate when active leaking has begun; otherwise, schedule a hail damage inspection within 7-14 days while the damage signature is fresh and insurance-documentable. Hail damage repair is one of the most insurance-friendly claim types because the date and location of the storm are externally verifiable through NOAA storm data.

Ice dam catastrophic leak

An ice dam that has been forcing meltwater under shingle courses for hours can produce sudden, high-volume interior flooding when the dam breaches the interior wall plate. On-site response: emergency steam removal of the ice dam (never chipping or breaking, which damages shingles), interior containment, tarp installation if shingle damage was caused by the event. The permanent fix is underlayment work in the eave zone, scheduled for warmer weather.

Flat roof ponding water leak

Flat roofs (TPO, EPDM, modified bitumen) develop leak paths when the membrane fails at a seam, fastener, or drain penetration. Active leaking on a flat roof requires immediate temporary patching with self-adhering bitumen patches, electronic leak detection (ELD) to confirm the actual breach point, and emergency containment until permanent membrane patching can be performed. Cost range: $650-$2,200 depending on size and access.

What not to do during a roof emergency

• Do not pour bleach, sealant, or roof cement into the visible interior leak. The water entry point is upstream of the visible damage. Surface treatments do not stop the source and can damage drywall further.
• Do not improvise tarp installation with bricks, cinderblocks, or weight-only anchors. Wind under any tarp creates lift force; weight-only anchors fail at the first 30+ mph gust and the loose tarp causes secondary damage.
• Do not delay calling because "it's only a small leak." Active intrusion compounds at $80-$150 per delayed day. A small leak at hour 1 is a $400 vent boot replacement; the same leak at hour 48 is a $400 vent boot plus $600 of drywall, $400 of insulation, and $250 of mold treatment.
• Do not throw away damaged belongings before documentation. Insurance carriers require photographic evidence of damaged belongings to include them in the claim. Document first, then dispose.
• Do not sign repair contracts during the emergency dispatch. Emergency containment is a separate service from permanent repair. Permanent repair scope and price should be quoted in writing after the emergency has been stabilized — never under the pressure of an active emergency.

Insurance and emergency mitigation

Most U.S. homeowner insurance policies include a Loss Mitigation provision (sometimes called Reasonable Repair or Duty to Mitigate). This provision both authorizes and requires the homeowner to take reasonable steps to prevent further damage after a covered loss occurs. Emergency tarping, temporary patching, and containment work are typically covered as part of the broader claim.

Documentation that supports the claim

• Date and time of the initial event (storm, impact, leak detection).
• Photographs of damage before any emergency work began. Include wide-angle views and close-up views of the damage area.
• Photographs of the emergency work in progress and after completion.
• Itemized invoice from the emergency response contractor specifying the work performed, materials used, and labor hours.
• Coordinator notes from the dispatch call (we provide these on request).

Submitting the emergency claim

Most carriers accept emergency mitigation receipts as part of the broader property damage claim — there is no separate "emergency repair claim." Submit the emergency receipt with the claim filing. Reimbursement typically arrives within 30 days of claim approval and is paid as part of the broader loss settlement check.

When to file a claim vs. pay out of pocket

The decision depends on three factors: deductible amount, total damage estimate, and your claim history. A $4,000 emergency repair on a $1,000-deductible policy is typically claim-worthy. A $1,200 emergency repair on a $2,500-deductible policy is not — you would pay out of pocket and the claim would simply note an event that did not exceed the deductible. We do not advise on the claim decision itself; we provide the documentation, and you make the call with your insurance agent.

After-hours and weekend dispatch

Emergency dispatch operates 24/7, including weekends and federal holidays. Response time and cost vary slightly by dispatch hour:

Lightning-active conditions suspend all rooftop work until the cell passes. Wind speeds above 35 mph suspend tarping work; the crew remains on-site, performs interior stabilization, and resumes when conditions allow. Snow and ice on the roof surface suspend work until the surface is cleared safely.

Frequently asked questions